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Brazil Exchange - March 15 - April 2, 1998

Exchange Director - Chuck Godwin

leven Nebraskans journeyed from Lincoln to Chicago to Miami and then on to Rio de Janeiro. Our two ambassadors from Colorado Vic and Carol Franks, joined us in Miami with much enthusiasm and in a few moments, we were one happy group looking forward with anticipation at the 16-day adventure ahead of us.

Arriving Rio late Monday morning we move through customs without a hitch and there on the other side of the barrier were our hosts (soon to become friends for 7 days). Two hosts held a large green and white Friendship Force banner and the others smiled, laughed and greeted each one of us as we found our match for the week. It was off to our homes to settle in and spent the remainder of the day getting acquainted, etc. We were all given a packet of materials on Rio and Brazil, a greeting from the club president and our flnal itinerary for the week. My host was the president of the club who taught English Literature four nights a week at a private college. Her husband spoke very little English and he always called me èMy friend,î with a big smile. He was quite the computer expert and we even made contact with the Lincoln Friendship Force¹s Web page and across the screen came the fact that I had paid for the Web page that month, what a surprise to be in Rio to see for the flrst time our page, thanks to Jim Ecklund for all his work.

Because the cost of housing is exorbitant, most Rios live in apartments and many were 29 stories or higher. My hosts lived on the 13th floor (yes, they are not superstitious like North Americans who don't have an offlcial 13th floor in any building, apartment or offlce.) The large apartments were clustered and security walls, gates and attendants monitored the area. Parking was in underground garages and all had elevators, in fact, several. Although the high rise apartments were mainly close to the beach, many views of the ocean were restricted as one apartment was built in front of another. Most of our homes didn¹t have air conditioning, but we all appreciated the warm climate even though the humidity was quite high.

Tuesday morning our hosts drove us to the base of Sugar Loaf Mountain to ride to the top via cable car (gondolas) for a gorgeous panoramic view of Rio. Since some hosts worked, car pooling was in vogue. We rode to the flrst stop, changed cars and on to the top. I don¹t know who took the most pictures on the ride up and back, Bob Wittstruck or Helen Lyles. This was an excellent beginning to give us an orientation to the layout of the city. Lunch was at the Military Circle on Red Beach, a scrumptious buffet with seating overlooking the beach-many military men having lunch as the Circle is located on the Military Base. From there it was to the Yacht Club for coffee, relaxation and viewing the boats moored along the docks.

Petropolis, named the Imperial City, in honor of Emperors D. Pedro I and D. Pedro II (their summer home), was our Wednesday excursion. Our ride in an air conditioned bus took us through a bit of a rain forest and low clouds. Fortunately, the sun made its appearance once we reached the city. We visited the Crystal Palace, Sao Pedro de Alcantara Cathedral, the Imperial Museum where we had to don cloth shoes over our own, what fun trying to keep them on, we slid most of the time, and the Santos Dumont house. He was considered the "Father of Aviation" in South American as the Wright Brothers were to the United States. Lunch was a treat as we ventured to the edge of the city to Chimarron, an authentic Churrasco Gaucho, an Argentina transplant. We all sat together at long rows of tables with a view of the old casino, flower gardens and beautiful manicured lawns. Waiters moved very quickly and brought small dishes of all kinds of salads and vegetables. Drink orders were taken and then the main course, all kinds of meat, beef, pork, chicken, cheese on skewers of large narrow swords, was brought to the table by waiters. All varieties of the meats kept coming and coming and one had to said "NO" several times to stop the men from slicing more meat on your plate, wow, such delicious food. Coffee and flan or ice cream closed out a super meal. We were the only non Brazilians in the restaurant as the tourists eat in town at the hotels. This is a good example of the plus value of going on a Friendship Force ExchangeÅyou see, hear and do the things that your hosts do. We waddled to the bus and some of us ècatnappedî on the way home.

Wednesday evening we went to the Teatro Plaza Foz for a folkloric show. The opening number will have to be described personally by one of the ambassadors. A very colorful program with beautiful costumes. At the end of the show, costumes from Rio's Carnival were displayed by the performers. Our seats were at the edge of the stage runway and we saw everything, Hm! Bob Wittstruck, or "Mr. Sinatra," as named by the hosts, gave a rendition of "All the Way" when called on stage. We were proud of him.

Corcovado Mountain where the spectacular statue of Christ the Redeemer stands was our destination on Thursday. We rode the cog rail train to the base of the statue and then had to climb 163 steps to reach the summit. It was an overcast day, but the sky cleared enough for pictures. A nice cool breeze was a welcome addition to the beautiful views. From here we went to the City Palace, the old British Embassy before it was moved to the new capitol. The head of protocal showed us some of the lovely rooms and told us that the Mayor was in France, but his aide, a retired Ambassador would represent him. We moved into the drawing room where furniture of yore was arranged for group interaction and coffee, coke and water were served. I made our offlcial presentation of a key to the city of Lincoln and a letter from our Mayor. He in turn made each of us honorary citizens of Rio de Janeiro and presented us with a certiflcate with our name, date and signature of the Mayor thereon along with a pin, pamphlets on Rio and a large book on Rio. He graciously autographed them at our request. When I arrived home that evening, I had a call from the President of the Sete Ixgoas Friendship Force asking if all was OK and she was looking forward to our arrival.

Although we had been through the city many times on our way to various places, on Friday, we had a city tour via an air conditioned van. We went to the other end of the city, a suburb on the peninsula via the new long bridge, another world so to speak, a different neighborhood. We stopped for a snack at one of the many sidewalk cafes and enjoyed looking across the bay at the "big city," people watching, visiting and eating pizza or sandwiches even though it was quite hot. We thought we had lost Jeanne Zwiebel, but there she was around the corner reading a book and relaxing from the hustle and bustle of the group. From here we went to the new Museum of Modern Art, a beautiful round building supported by a single column over the water. Not many items on display, but well done. It took us almost 2 hours to get back to the main part of the city, trafflc was terrible, an indication of the vastness of Rio.

Friday evening Helen Lyles and I went with my host, Maria, to the college where she teaches. Another class on American Civilization joined Maria's English Literature class and I talked for over an hour on American education. Some students had questions, such as, changes in education in the U.S., the role of multi-cultural education, was Black English being taught, role of the Federal Government in Education, how are colleges evaluated, etc.? Helen talked about the SAGA program at the University. One question dealt with the perceptions of Americans toward Brazilians. I said that I could not speak for all Americans, but my impressions, people who were friendly, warm, accepting and that the females had very expressive eyes, this brought applause from the students.

What a farewell party we had. It was held in the community room of an apartment complex where one of our host lived. Tables were set on the patio and inside was a banner, "Welcome Friendship Force of Lincoln, Nebraska" over a long table groaning with food. After liquid refreshments and visiting, we ate and then the fun and frivolity began. One of the club members brought his electric keyboard and serenaded us throughout the party. Lots of dancing, and singing what a fun group. Prior to leaving Lincoln the Friendship Force Chorus had rehearsed to be able to sing if called on to do so; however, "Mr. Sinatra" became our chorus and was he a hit with the songs from the Sinatra era. Maria made a presentation on part of the Rio Club and I did the same for Lincoln and talked about the excellent exchange and thanked them all for their hospitality. We were going to give them the book from the Friendship Force, but I discovered a copy in my host¹s home. What a surprise to flnd out that Bob had one of his birdhouses available and that became the gift along with a wall hanging. I referred to my teaching in Maria¹s class and about a student who wanted to know what Americans thought of Brazilians. I replied, but the interpreter made a gross error which I can't repeat in print, but you can ask me. What a howl went up from the party goers, most of them understood some English and knew what I had said. At the close of the party Elaine Mehling, Bob and Hedy Wright and I went to the 29th floor to join Norma and Luis for a pleasant evening on their patio where the cool breezes were blowing, what a view of the ocean. Again food and drinks were served. These were the hosts for the Wrights.

Monday was farewell day and we made it to the airport at 3 p.m., paid the airport departure tax of $9.15 and I was the flrst to check in, but just then the computers went down and we had to wait for 30 minutes or more while the clerks did all the ticket checking, etc., by hand-technology is great when it is working. The flight to Bello Horizonte was only half full and it was here that we were to board a chartered bus for the 45 minute drive to our second host city, Sete Lagusa (Seven Lakes).

Arrival in Sete Lagoas (Seven Lakes) in anticipation of a chartered bus waiting for us proved erroneous. We collected our luggage and walked through the check point and there on the other side were 10 Friendship Force members from Sete Lagoas holding signs indicating our names and the names of our hosts. Along with a small van which took 9 of us and most of the luggage, the other hosts gathered the remainder into their cars and after a 50 minute drive, we arrived in Sete and each one of us was delivered to the door of our homes for the next seven days. J.C. and I stayed with the club president. After settling in, dinner was served at 9 p.m.

Tuesday morning after breakfast of cashew juice, fruit, cheese, ham, bread, coffee cake and coffee, we paid a visit to the Mayor¹s Offlce in the Municipal Building. The Head of Tourism and Protocol met us and took us to the Deputy Chambers (similar to our City Council) where we sat around a large table. Since the Mayor was attending a meeting in Miami, the Vice Mayor was introduced and he welcomed us to Sete Lagoas. He then asked me to join him in front of the room where the city flag, the flag of Brazil and the United States are on display. He presented us with the key to the city and I in turn presented him with a letter from the Mayor of Lincoln and a key to our city. Deputies were introduced to me individually and then coffee, cakes, buttered toast and cheese bread were served. The media was represented by several reporters.

The mayor had arranged for two air conditioned vans to take us on a tour of the outlying areas of the city. While on the bus the mayor called from Florida to see if all was in order. We visited a new town, a low income project where approximately 7500 new homes are to be built. Garden spots were to be available for the people to grow food for the family and to sell on the market. Then to a school for artisans-pottery, ceramics, loom weaving, painting, woodworking, etc. Lunch was at a typical country style restaurant as guest of the mayor.

On Wednesday we visited a school for low income children where they had academics, worked on learning some wood working and embroidery skills, etc. Our noon meal was in a typical country restaurant where the hot dishes were cooked over wood flres in large iron kettles buffet style. The restaurant was outside of the city. A very rustic setting with Arabian horses roaming the area, pink pigs and cows in barns, and old wagons and equipment here and there. Some of us tried the national drink, Caipirinha, white rum made from sugar cane. A favorite way to drink it is over ice and lemon juice but it still warmed the inners all the way to the toes. After lunch we visited Embrapa, the National Maize and Sorghum Research Center, one of 40 biotechnology research centers in the country. They are working with the University of Nebraska Research Center on East Campus. Two of their researchers are in Lincoln working on their doctorate and the Associate Director lived for a year in Lincoln doing post-doctoral studies at the University. That evening watched the TV for the report of our visit to the mayor's offlce and to the school for low income children. We even had our pictures, a story about Friendship Force and the letter from the Mayor of Lincoln printed in the local newspaper. Also interviewed on the radio.

Wednesday evening I had been asked to speak to students of English at a private school in Sete. J.C. Graver and June Kromburg went too and the three of us talked to students for several hours. I started out with the total group of 30 and as more students arrived, they were divided into three groups and each one of us became the teacher.

The usual meeting place at the center of the city was by Lake Paulino, a beautiful lake that was even more so at night when all the street lights ringing the lake were glittering. Thursday was no exception and early in the morning we gathered at the lake to board the bus to Belo Horizonte and then to Ouro Preto (Black Gold), an old gold mining town. The drive to the city was beautiful as we meandered through rolling hills and small mountains where the vegetation was so green and flowering trees and bushes brighten the countryside. Many old buildings and churches greeted us as we traveled on cobblestone streets, a bumpy ride to say the least. It was here that the School of Mines was founded in 1896. At the School we toured the superb museum of rocks and minerals collected from around the world,even items from Colorado and New Mexico. No visit would be complete without a stop at the soapstone market, some purchases were made.

The return trip was an adventure as we reached Belo Horizonte during the rush hour and our driver took a wrong turn, but we arrived home by 7:30 p.m. Again, we were all taken to our homes by our hosts who were waiting for us at the lake. My host, Iraci, taught English part time in a private school. Early Friday morning we stopped by the school and were introduced to the students. Helen Larson and J.C. were there too and on our way to the door through the large central assembly area we were mobbed by the students asking questions and using their English. From here we went to "King of the Bush" caves and to a picnic at the "Park of the Falls." Our hosts provided the food consisting of toasted ham and cheese sandwiches, cheese bread, fruit, salads, crackers, soda and cake. June¹s birthday was the next day and since it was a free day for us, we decided to celebrate a day early at the picnic. A chocolate cake was presented to her along with a T-Shirt from Ouro Preto by our hosts. They sang "Happy Birthday" to her in Portuguese and we in turn did the same in English. After lunch most of the group walked around the lake.

Friday evening we had a pizza party at the restaurant on Lake Paulino. All of the host families were there and we fllled the 2nd floor outdoor veranda-what fun we all had, much talking, laughing and all you want to eat of delicious pizza, Valentinos, eat your heart out. After several hours we car pooled to Tom Major¹s Dance Hall where a string of tables had been put together for us and we were just off the dance floor. A three piece orchestra played for dancing and then there were three exhibition dances by professionals, wow, the tango was something else. The professional tango instructor asked Helen Larson to dance with him after the exhibition, they were a hit on the floor, not the tango, but a good rhythm number. Mr. Sinatra was called to the stage and he did us proud again.

Saturday was a free day with our hosts. J.C. and I went to see Vilas' offlce and received a hat with the offlce name on it. Vila is in agriculture extension work. To a big super market where the checkers sit on stools instead of standing. Home to change into shorts as the humidity was climbing and off to a birthday party for a friend of Iraci¹s. Their home was located at the edge of the city with a large yard, needed it to hold about 75-100 people in attendance. Another fabulous bar-be-que as only the Brazilians know how to do. Some of the children splashed about in the pool and a few of the teens danced to taped music. From here we went to one of our Friendship Force Host¹s home (Bob and Victor's hosts) for the birthday party for their son who was turning 18. He was a gem, helped out all of the time, excellent English. A bar-be-que with the works, roll me home was the call at the end of the day. On the way home we stopped at another host¹s home (Elaine Mehlings' host family) to see the hundreds of birds that he was raising, some of them on the endangered species list. He was experimenting with a breeding program and was able to develop purple throats on some birds. There were many plants and trees on the grounds and even a few banana trees being raised as experiments to develop a resistance to tropical diseases.

The farewell party was held at the Nautico Club "a private club" where there were four swimming pools, tennis courts, picnic areas, club house, dance pavilion, soccer flelds, etc. Beef and chicken bar-be-qued over wood and coal fires by two brothers, both were hosts for our ambassadors. Some Friendship Force members came up from Bello Horizonte and it was a fun, interesting and delightful day. Home to rest and J.C. and I took our hosts and their two daughters out for dinner on a restaurant on one of the other lakes. What a surprise when we met up with Bob, Victor and Helen Larson with their host families.

Monday was departure day and after meeting at the designated place on the lake, loaded luggage on the van and with 3 cars, we drove to Belo Horizonte to board the plane to Iguassu Falls via Sao Paulo.

Arriving at the Falls we were met by our guide, Wilson, holding up a sign "Friendship Force" and he soon had our luggage collected, boarded the bus and off to the hotel named Hotel Bourbon. Because of the heavy rain the past two days we changed our tour of the Falls to the next morning. Tuesday morning after a delicious buffet breakfast, boarded the bus at 8:30 a.m. for the Argentina side of the Falls. A cloudy day, but bright enough for pictures. At the border between Argentina and Brazil, trucks were lined up for at least a mile waiting their turn to be inspected prior to crossing the border. Sometimes they wait at least 24 hours. We sailed on through after Wilson presented our list of names and passport numbers to the custom offlcials. A light rain began to fall as we proceeded to walk the catwalk over the cascading falls, awesome to say the least. There are 275 falls in all on the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguary. After a brief visit to a souvenir shop, the bus took us to the Brazilian side of the falls where we walked down to the river level to view the falls from the bottom, we all got wet from the mist spraying from the falling watersÅbut such fun.

Shirley, both Helens, Jeanne, Elaine, June, Bob Wright and I were the brave ones for a boat ride to the mist of the falls "where we were soaked" like "drowned rats," but what an experience. We walked into the hotel lobby wet to the skin and our clothes dripping. I had to use the electric hair dryer in my room to dry out my billfold and money. Thank goodness I sent my passport back with J.C. before the ride.

Not one to stop, that evening Shirley, June, Helen Larson, Elaine, Helen Lyles and I went to the Teatro Plaza Foz for a folkloric show, good seats at tables, center of the theatre. The music was quite loud, but the dancing and singing were excellent. Music represented the three cultures of the area, Uruguay, Argentina and Brazil. Wednesday was farewell to Brazil; bus to the airport; flight to Curitiba, Brazil; then to Sao Paulo to board our international flight to Miami. In Sao Paulo we had to wait almost an hour in long lines to clear our passports, pay the $36.00 departure tax, check in at the United Airline counter, etc. Arriving Miami we said farewell to our two Colorado Ambassadors-Victor and Carol, such fun loving people and the rest of us arrived in Lincoln via Chicago about 2:00 p.m. April 2.

What a tremendous experience! My fellow ambassadors were a ègreatî bunch and I would travel with them again. They were flexible, positive, good natured, happy faces and truly personified the Friendship Motto "Faces, not places" is what is important.